Inside the rule-breaking movement to make high-end sushi more sustainable

Read the full story at the Robb Report.

By design, the omakase at Rosella in New York’s East Village would be almost unrecognizable to the city’s sushi purists. Chef-owners Yoni Lang and Jeffrey Miller save tuna scraps and bloodlines to make smoked tuna butter to toss with handmade noodles. Bright, rich bowls of laksa broth are fortified with shrimp heads and shells, and sake-poached mussels star in one of the meal’s most memorable nigiri. There’s also dessert, two of them. 

The 17 or so courses are “closer to a hybrid of sushi omakase and a kaiseki meal,” Lang says. “When you sit down for traditional Japanese sushi, you know what you’re getting. You’ll have mackerel, white fish, three types of salmon, tamago, and lots of bluefin tuna. We go a much different route.”

That route is dictated by sourcing. Rather than importing the majority of their fish and mise-en-place from Japan, as most high-end sushi restaurants do, Lang and Miller’s menu is driven by local produce, whole fish utilization and a mostly domestic roster of fish.

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